Some of our great customers and friends including President Reagan, President George W. Bush, The Great Secretary of Defense Chuck Hagel, Great Senator John McCain, and the Greatest Boxer of all time Muhammad Ali, Magnificent Henry Winkler, to name a few.
The Executive style image remaining at Sabatini since 1973.
Dress shirts can make or break a fine suit. Fine quality shirts are made of 100 percent cotton. Shirt collars must balance the shape of the face. A long narrow-spread collar will accentuate a thin, elongated face. A rounded collar will accentuate a rounded face. Counterbalance with a medium to a long point-spread collar. The correct height for a properly fitted shirt collar is about one-half inch above the jacket collar. The cuff of a shirt should always be seen when wearing a jacket, with approximately one-quarter to one-half inch showing.
Accentuate vertical lines. Choose chalk stripes and herringbones over plaids and solids. Clothes should be cut generously. Shirt collars should not be round. Select collars with points that lead away from the face at a slight angle, but never a spread collar.
Horizontal lines should be accentuated to stress breadth. Fabrics should be unfinished worsteds, tweeds and other bulky materials. The jacket should be worn on the long side with a loose waist and extra width in the shoulders. Trousers should always be cuffed.
International Styles & Cuts
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The English Style
The English style seems to be the most popular of all the schools of suit fashion, showing careful attention to detail. The jacket lies close to the body and is marked at the waist. The shoulders are soft, have a little padding, and are not particularly large. The armholes are usually cut quite high. The English suit includes two side vents, even in dress suits. The double-breasted jacket is more popular in England than in America where they prefer a two or three button single-breasted version, and the trousers usually have two pleats with the pockets placed along the seams.
The Italians prefer the shoulder to be quite high, padded and to sag just a bit. The jacket clings a bit more tightly to the body and has a rather narrow armhole. The jackets generally have pockets without flaps and are without vents in the back. In Italy, single or double vents are often limited to sports jackets. The Italian pants have diagonally cut pockets and a low waist, probably because the Italians do not favor wearing suspenders or vests with their close fitted suit jackets.
Texas Speaker of the House Jim Wright & The magnificent actor Henry Winkler with Sabatini
In America, the shoulder is more naturally soft, with an even slope and with little or no padding. Jackets almost always have three buttons, with only the center button fastened. The armholes are wider than the English version, thus providing more comfort and adaptability to different physiques. The pockets of the jacket have flaps, and the back has only one vent. The pants usually have no pleats, and the fit down the leg is close.
The French school comes from the style begun in the 1960s by Pierre Cardin, who designed a jacket with high shoulders and a little visible roll in the sleeve's head. This jacket is flared and very long, popular in England in the first half of the 20th century. Cardin's pants were bell-bottomed and without pleats.
The Germans' suits have always been designed for comfort and durability. The shoulder of the jacket is low and natural. The chest is prominent, providing enough room on the inside for pockets to hold wallets, notebooks, pens, etc. The pants crotch and waist are low.
The Sabatini Style
The Sabatini style draws from the best features of all these styles. Sabatini suggests that men should concentrate on the executive single-breasted, two-button style suit with a notched lapel and a medium fitted waist. The armhole should be 3/4" deeper than the English style, for comfort. Opt for a medium fit shoulder. The collar of the jacket should lie close to the neck, and the lapel should fit the contours of the chest. Make sure the inside canvas is of medium weight; if the canvas is too heavy, your jacket will be stiff. On the other hand, a too light canvas will not work in the heat and humidity of summer. Your jacket will have no body and will appear wrinkled and worn.